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The bar and restaurant at West Park Hotel, Harrogate No one heads to Harrogate for high-octane excitement. This is a genteel spa town. Bettys tea room and the Royal Horticultural Society gardens at Harlow Carr are big draws. It is also known for its shopping. With branches of Farrow & Ball, Lakeland, Molton Brown and Swarovski, James Street typifies a town which blends solid middle-class style with a little of the designer bling that wealthy North Yorkshire loves. At first glance, West Park Hotel, a new venture by local pub group Provenance Inns, appears to be aimed squarely at this audience. With its zinc-topped bar, expensive flower displays, champagne and cocktails, the ground-floor brasserie and bar seems tailormade to appeal to well-heeled Yorkshiremen and women. Afternoon teas and lessons in flower arranging offer gentler diversions, but of a similarly middle-aged bent. But look again, and what do you see? Yep, hip filament lightbulbs and a trendy metal ceiling. Down the stairs, past interesting sculptural art works, you find, in the gents, a decorative guard of wall-mounted, multicoloured plastic dogs’ heads. Like the draught Brooklyn lager at the bar (West Park also serves an immaculate pint of Black Sheep, £3.50), it is the kind of thing you would expect to find in east London, not